Beyond the HC Cols: Finding the Heart (and Muscle) of Cycling in the Béarn Pyrenees

Sep 16, 2025

2 min read

When people hear that I live at the base of the legendary Col d'Aubisque, right near Laruns in the notoriously steep Béarn region, they immediately picture the giants of the Tour de France. And for good reason! Over the 11 years I’ve lived and cycled in these mountains, I’ve tackled our region's famous Hors Catégorie (HC) passes hundreds of times. In fact, I’ve logged over 329 climbs up these iconic summits, racking up more than 581,000 meters of elevation gain.

Those big mountain days are unforgettable, but if you ask me where the true soul—and secret challenge—of Pyrenean cycling lies, I will tell you without hesitation: it’s in our unrelenting foothills.

The Secret Playground: Punchy, Scenic, and Quiet

While the famous cols get all the glory, the quiet backroads weaving through our valleys offer a cycling experience like no other. Don't let the word "foothills" fool you—these routes are raw, steep, and constantly shifting gradients. They are nature’s perfect venue for natural interval training, where short, sharp ramps keep your legs honest and your heart pumping.

Riding through places like Escot, Lurbe-Saint-Christau, and Arette, or threading through the lush green canopy of the Bager Forest on the way to Oloron-Sainte-Marie, feels like stepping into a hidden paradise. The views are open, the air is crisp, and the traffic is wonderfully sparse.

From the climbs around Béost, Eaux-Bonnes, and Eaux-Chaudes, up toward Gabas, you get to experience the sheer diversity of the Béarn landscape on every ride.

Respecting the Road: Riding Sharp and Staying Safe

Riding these narrow, winding mountain tracks requires a mix of confidence and keen awareness. The switchbacks are tight, the gradients can bite unexpectedly, and you always need to stay sharp—especially for the occasional car sweeping around a blind corner on the wrong side of the road!

As women riders, mastering these technical, steep lanes builds an incredible sense of bike handling, spatial awareness, and resilience. Every sharp bend mastered is a boost to your confidence.

Coffee, Camaraderie, and Café Stops

No great ride is complete without a pause to soak it all in, fuel up, and connect over a warm cup of coffee. One of my absolute favourite rhythms is riding out to Rébénacq via Belair, or taking the undulating, scenic lanes from Lys to Mifaget.

These routes aren't just about the training metrics; they're about the atmosphere. Stopping at a cosy village café in the heart of the valley, sharing stories, and savouring the quiet rustic charm of rural France is what makes every kilometre worthwhile.

You Belong on These Roads

Whether you are aiming to conquer your very first mountain pass, looking to sharpen your fitness on punchy valley loops, or ready to take on legendary Tour de France ascents, these roads have a place for you.

After 11 years, hundreds of climbs, and over half a million meters of elevation, my love for riding here only grows stronger. The Béarn Pyrenees will challenge you, inspire you, and show you just how strong you truly are.

So, clip in, respect the mountains, enjoy the quiet roads, and don't forget to stop for coffee and the views along the

way.